Mark McNairy definitely knows how to play to his audience. All one needed to do was look at the “Jim Fucking Moore” T-shirt—worn with white long johns and a camo baseball cap by one of his few female models—to see that. (For the record, Moore, the creative director of GQ, seemed to love the homage and expressed his gratitude via a bro-hug backstage.) Novelties aside, McNairy presented a bevy of well-made garments infused with his signature sartorial cheek. With the aim of “taking elements from the past and making them new,” he transformed traditionally formal looks like wool suits into street-ready wares by relaxing their cuts and rolling up the pant cuffs. In one instance, he showed a quilted tweed coat in place of a suit jacket, and in another, he turned a pair of dressy gray pinstriped trousers into track pants by adding subtle cargo pockets and tapering the ankles with a ribbed black-and-white-striped band. Per usual, bow ties and camo prints abounded, and newsboy caps and leather driving gloves reinforced the range’s dandy-with-a-wink attitude.
For her, there were oversize khaki pants, baggy varsity sweaters, flannel tops, and American Apparel-esque leggings—the kind of stuff you might expect to find on a university campus come November.
The street-meets-prep menswear collection will no doubt appeal to a range of snazzy gents, from collegiate WASPs looking for an edge to, well, Cam’ron. The rapper closed the show (following a model in a particularly fun faux-fur camo coat) donning a thoroughly ridiculous custom cape made from tweed and faux fur. Naturally, the front row went wild.